Drybrushing the Kill Bursta

I have had my Kill Bursta hanging around on the workbench for a while now, so it’s nice to make some significant progress on the model.

Forge World’s big Ork tank mounts a huge gun ready to take on any Imperial BaneBlade or even Titan. The Kill Bursta mounts a huge-bore Kannon capable of destroying bunkers and siegeworks with ease.

When I constructed and undercoated the model, I had given the model a double undercoat of white and black and then using a thinned Chaos Black I touched up the black basecoat. I also black undercoated certain parts of the engine.

The first thing I did when I revisited the model was something different and sprayed the upper surfaces of the model with Citadel Spray Zandri Dust. Using a brush I painted the tracks with Gorthor Brown. I did the engine with Leadbelcher, rather than drybrushing with Tin Bitz over a black undercoat.

I started painting some of the panels with other colours and I shaded the model notably Balor Brown and Ushabti Bone. This is really to break up the predominant colour of the model.

The next stage was a bit of a challenge, using various Citadel shades, though mainly Seraphim Sepia, to add shadow to the model.

Once this was done and dry I started to rust and dust up the model.

What I wanted was to get both a dusty and rusty look to the model.

I drybrushed the model with a mix of XV-88 and Ushabti Bone, before finally using some Ushabti Bone.

I then took some Citadel Dry paint, Golgfag Brown and using a smaller drybrush added patches here and then across the model to represent rusty or rusting patches on the Kill Bursta and used some on the tracks and wheels.

I also used Golgfag Brown and Leadbelcher on the engine.

There is still a fair bit of work to do on the model, but I am pleased with my progress so far.

See the workbench feature on the Ork Kill Bursta.

 

Drybrushing the Ork Battlewagon

This plastic battlewagon kit was released by Games Workshop on the 3rd January 2009 and I picked mine up on the 4th January. I had hoped to paint the model quite quickly, well nearly ten years later, maybe not.

The last stage I left the model was back in 2010 when I had drybrushed the black parts of the model. It then got left for a while, well it got left for quite a few years! So I recently unearthed it from storage with the intention of finishing it off.  Having constructed the model, shading it with washes and some light drybrushing, I wanted to add some more weathering.

What I wanted was to get both a dusty and rusty look to the model.

I drybrushed the model with more XV-88 then doing a lighter drybrush with a mix of XV-88 and Ushabti Bone, before finally using some Ushabti Bone.

I then took some Citadel Dry paint, Golgfag Brown and using a smaller drybrush added patches here and then across the model to represent rusty or rusting patches on the wagon.

With this model, less is more, so I think I might go back to the model and use some weathering powders.

I still think I need to rust up the tracks more, as well as the death roller.

See the workbench feature on the Ork Battlewagon.

See photographs of completed Ork Battlewagons from various shows.

Dusting up the Beast

Probably my favourite Indiana Jones film is Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. The combination of archaeology, mythology, nazi soldiers and lots of wonderful pulp action. Though we know it wasn’t real, and though we know that there was no actual historical version of it; I am sure most of us who have thought about recreating the Indiana Jones films on the table have wanted to use that tank. It appears at first glance to be a Mark VIII with a turret, the reality was that it was built specially for the film and was built up from an excavator.

I wrote back in 2012 about finding a 28mm model of the tank, since then I found it was available from Empress Miniatures, I was able to order it and go through the resin pieces and constructing the Mark IX Beast. Following the application of the white undercoat, I started the base coat of Vallejo 70912 Tan Yellow on the Mark IX Beast tank. Having thought about the result and I didn’t like the Tan Yellow, I went ahead and made the decision to repaint the tank with Citadel Layer colour, Ushabti Bone. I then shaded the tank with various washes.

The next stage was to start to tone down the shading with some drybrushing with Ushabti Bone.

The effect was to give the tank a dusty feel as though it had been driving for some time in the deserts.

I was quite pleased with how this turned out.

The next stage will be  further weathering.

See the full workbench feature on the Mark IX Beast tank.

Drybrushing the Steam Tank

After “washing” the Victorian Science Fiction Steam Tank from Ironclad Miniatures I gave it a relatively light drybrush.

I used a combination of Vallejo Middlestone and a mix of Middlestone (882) and Ivory (918), and a large brush.

Now a side view.

Here is the Steam Tank alongside a Foundry Gunfighter.

See the full workbench feature on the Ironclad Miniatures Victorian Science Fiction Steam Tank.

Ork Aircraft Traktor Fuel Bowser

One of the Forgeworld models I have always liked is the Ork Aircraft Traktor and Launch Trolley. Ideal to go with my Ork Bommer.

Sadly this is now no longer available, so when stocks were running low (back in 2006) I bought one.

The model consists of the plastic Wartrakk and some resin pieces.

Having put the model together and started on the paint job, I wanted to tidy up and neaten the weathering, which seems to have worked.

You can see the full workbench feature on the Traktor.

Ork Aircraft Traktor

One of the Forgeworld models I have always liked is the Ork Aircraft Traktor and Launch Trolley. Ideal to go with my Ork Bommer.

Sadly this is now no longer available, so when stocks were running low (back in 2006) I bought one.

The model consists of the plastic Wartrakk and some resin pieces.

Having put the model together I initially gave it a white undercoat. Having re-looked at the model I decided that I wanted the dirty rusty metal look I had given some of my other Ork vehicles, so I gave the model a black undercoat. This was then initially given a drybrush of Tin Bitz.

I then gave it a drybrush of Boltgun Metal.

I also used some Blazing Orange to add rusty streaks.

The other side.

You can see the full workbench feature on the Traktor.

Ork Aircraft Traktor

One of the Forgeworld models I have always liked is the Ork Aircraft Traktor and Launch Trolley. Ideal to go with my Ork Bommer.

Sadly this is now no longer available, so when stocks were running low (back in 2006) I bought one.

The model consists of the plastic Wartrakk and some resin pieces.

Having put the model together I gave it a white undercoat.

Having re-looked at the model I decided that I wanted the dirty rusty metal look I had given some of my other Ork vehicles, so I gave the model a black undercoat.

This was then initially given a drybrush of Tin Bitz.

The other side.

You can see the full workbench feature on the Traktor.

Drybrushing the Gunwagon

In a post the other day I showed how I drybrushed my Ork Looted Rhino. I used the same technique with my Ork Gunwagon.

I had given the Gunwagon an ink based wash, after this had dried, I gave the model a drybrush.

This brings out the detail, but I did try and avoid being too heavy with the brush.

I will now need to go back over some of the metal details to lose some of the the dusty dirty look.

I also want to go over the front “teef” and add some weathering and scratches – well do you expect Orks to look after their vehicles and keep them clean and looking like they just came out of the showroom?

Full workbench feature on my Ork Gunwagon.

More pictures of Ork Gunwagons.

Drybrushing the Rhino

The next stage of the modelling journey for my Ork Looted Rhino was to drybrush some detail onto the model.

I had given the Rhino an ink based wash, after this had dried, I gave the model a drybrush.

This brings out the detail, but I did try and avoid being too heavy with the brush.

I will now need to go back over some of the metal details to lose some of the the dusty dirty look.

There is still some work to do, in particular I still need to model the front top hatches.

See the full workbench feature on the Looted Rhino.

See our gallery of Looted Rhinos.

Drybrushing

After giving the Inquisitorial Stormtroopers a wash consisting of Chestnut Ink, Scorched Brown paint (which helps remove the gloss of the ink) and some water to thin the wash down. I then drybrushed the uniforms with Desert Yellow.

The sergeant and the heavy weapons.

Next stage will be the details.

See the full workbench feature on my website.