Basecoating the Grot Mega Tank

I picked up the Grot Mega Tank at GamesDay 2010. It was available in limited numbers, but I was lucky enough to pick one up, before they sold out. I really do like this model alongside the Grot Tanks.

Hammered together out of junk, spare Mekboy know-wotz and unbridled Grot enthusiasm, the Grot Mega Tank adds even more firepower to the battlefield madness that has come to be known as a Grotzkrieg, terrifying Imperial Tacticians, Eldar Farseers and Chaos Warlords alike.

The model is very ship like with battleship style turrets and a prow shaped bow. It is a very ramshackle vehicle and looks like (as it should) if the grots have just thrown it together from parts lying around the battlefield and stuff stolen from a Mek workshop.

So after letting this model languish too long in a box, I got it out again to see if I could finish painting it. Having re-undercoated the model and starting the basecoat I finished off the hull with Ushabti Bone.

I painted the turret weapons with Leadbelcher. I also painted the main mast and funnel with Leadbelcher as well.

 

I had painted the tracks and the rear engine deck with Gorthor Brown. I painted the rear exhausts with Leadbelcher.

I still have some work to do on tidying up the basecoat, the depth charge and other gaps on the model.

I also need to find the deck Krew and get them undercoated and painted.

See the Grot Mega Tank Workbench.

Mechanicum Ordinatus Aktaeus

The Aktaeus is the most recognisable of the Ordinatus Minoris created and operated by the Mechanicum, a super-heavy transport designed to carve a path through the stony heart of a world to deliver its cargo of warriors to the centre of the battlefield. Known to the armies of the Emperor as the Imperial Mole, this vehicle is employed primarily as a siege engine capable of rendering even the most formidable fortifications pointless by burrowing beneath them.

M46 Patton

M46 General Patton

The M46 Patton was an American medium tank designed to replace the M26 Pershing and M4 Sherman. It was one of the U.S Army’s principal medium tanks of the early Cold War, with models in service from 1949 until the mid-1950s.

Reading the Hot War books from Harry Turtledove has inspired me to think about gaming some scenarios from the books. British Comets and Centurions versus Russians T34-85 and T54 Soviet tanks with American M26 Pershing and M48 Patton tanks. In the book there are also Sherman manned by (West) German forces.

Grot Krew

Across my Ork Big Gunz, heavy vehicles, even my Stompa, I have a variety of Grot Krew that need painting.

This is a Grot Gunner from the Forge World Kill Kannon.

This is another Grot Gunner from the Forge World Kill Kannon. I gave the shell casings on the model a base coat of Skullcrusher Brass, before giving them a wash of Agrax Earthshade. The shells themselves were painted with Leadbelcher.

I used a variety of greys to paint the Grot’s helmet.

On this Grot from the Big Zzappa, I painted this shoulder belt and this should armour.

This Grot is from the Stompa plastic kit. Another one with a radio and a microphone.

This plastic Grot with a screwdriver is from the Sompa as well. I used Nuln Oil Shade on the drill. Just realised that’s a socket wrench in his belt, will need to paint that using Leadbelcher again.

I added some highlights to the Grots using Warboss Green. I then used Citadel Dry paint, Niblet Green to add highlights. I then did further highlights using Hexos Palesun. I painted his nails and teeth with Ushabti Bone. I painted his two pistols with Leadbelcher.

For the Kill Kannon observer, I painted a lens effect on the observing tool. I painted the entire lens with Thunderhawk Blue and then used Lothern Blue for the reflection before finally adding a drop of white at the top. On the other side of the device I used a drop of Mephiston Red.

I also used a range of greys to paint his trousers.

Still some work to do on these.

Imperial Knights at Warhammer World

Designed to smash apart enemies at close range, very few enemies can withstand the initial assault of the Imperial Knight Gallant. The ground shakes as the Knight Gallant stomps forward, closing in on their prey – with deceptive speed this hulking robotic form is within range, and unleashes the fury of both reaper chainsword and thunderstrike gauntlet. A Knight Gallant will slam into enemy lines like a tidal wave, and come out of the other side unscathed.

An Imperial Knight Gallant.

An Imperial Knight Crusader at Warhammer World in a striking dark blue scheme.

Carrying more firepower than a tank squadron, the Imperial Knight Crusader strides into battle with the confidence two main guns will give you. Capable of smashing holes in even the hardiest defence line, the Knight Crusader offers support to its close-range brethren, standing further back and unleashing scathing torrents of firepower to obliterate threats and terrify the enemy.

T-55

Former East German T55 on display at Duxford.

Russian cold-war period main battle tank, crew of 4, powered by 12-cylinder diesel engine, armed with 100mm gun and one machine gun.

The T-54 and T-55 tanks are a series of Soviet main battle tanks introduced in the years following the Second World War. The T-54/55 series eventually became the most-produced tank in military history. Estimated production numbers for the series range from 86,000 to 100,000.

Many are still in service today.

Armiger Warglaives

These nimble Armiger Warglaives were on display at Warhammer World.

Armiger Warglaives

Nimble and responsive, Armiger Warglaives lope towards the enemy with purposeful strides. On one arm they wield fearsome reaper chain-cleavers, their adamantium teeth whirring and actuator motors roaring. On the other they bear menacing thermal spears, bulky melta weapons that are essentially stripped down equivalents of a Knight Errant’s thermal cannon. A single shot from such a weapon can vaporise even the most heavily protected combatant, melt through the wall of a bunker or reduce a battle tank to a molten wreck. Their pilots are well-suited to the close quarters aggression of the Warglaive, and stride into battle alongside their masters filled with dogged determination to do their betters proud.

Painting, weathering and transfers

I wanted to try out some painting techniques, weathering powders and transfers, before I started painting not only my other Gaslands cars, but also my Forge World Ork models.

So I started off with an old Hot Wheels New Beetle that I “found” in a box in the garage…

I gave the model a spray of Zandri Dust.

Once this was dry, I gave the model a wash of first Agrax Earthshade in some areas, but mainly Seraphim Sepia across the whole car.

I the drybushed the car with some Golgfag Brown.

One of the things I wanted to try out, was trying out some transfers. I have avoided using transfers for years, but with my Aeronautica Imperialis I have been thinking I should provide the models, especially the Imperial Navy flyers with appropriate markings. I think the last time I did transfers was twenty odd years ago…

So, using some free Warlord Games Judge Dredd transfers that came free with Wargames Illustrated, I took a couple of the transfers and applied them to the Beetle. I used Vallejo Decal Softener to aid their adhesion to the model.

The result was slightly glossy, which was to be expected. However I didn’t have any matt varnish.

In the end I decided to try out some of the Forge World weathering powders I have on my workbench, which I had never used.

I tried out Light Earth and Orange Rust, and was quite pleased with how they worked and the effect I got.

This is a testbed, so the next thing to work out, is how should I paint the windscreen?

 

Spraying the Kill Bursta

Forge World’s big Ork tank mounts a huge gun ready to take on any Imperial BaneBlade or even Titan. The Kill Bursta mounts a huge-bore Kannon capable of destroying bunkers and siegeworks with ease.

The last time I looked at the model I had given the model a double undercoat of white and black and then using a thinned Chaos Black I touched up the black basecoat. I also black undercoated certain parts of the engine.

I then drybrushed the engine with Tin Bitz.

Digging the model out from storage, I decided not that I would start again, but I certainly would have a different approach. Continue reading “Spraying the Kill Bursta”