warhammer 40k Archives - Felix's Gaming Pages

Making progress on the Forge World MkIIb Land Raider

The Land Raider is an Imperial main battle tank and troop transport which serves as the “armoured fist of the Space Marines.” The Mark IIb Land Raider Phobos is one of the earliest marks of the standard pattern of Land Raider. The Mark IIb Land Raider Phobos is the only pattern of the standard Land Raider Phobos that uses the older armoured sponsons, as they do not allow the weapons they hold to fully rotate.

I got a Forge World MkIIb Land Raider and was originally painting it up as a Grey Knights Land Raider in desert camouflage. I wrote up some reflections on my MkIIB Land Raider, on the current state of the painting and what I needed to do next. I had a few issues fixing the bolter guard on the top of the superstructure. I eventually managed to glue in the armoured shell. I then touched up the damaged areas with a brush and some fresh paint.

I am still painting up the icongraphy. The front ramp is being painted as stone.

Once that is done I will be shading the model to add depth (and weathering).

See the full Mark IIb Land Raider workbench.

Fixing the missing part

The Land Raider is an Imperial main battle tank and troop transport which serves as the “armoured fist of the Space Marines.”The Land Raider’s heritage predates even the founding of the Imperium of Man, yet it remains the single most destructive weapon in the Adeptus Astartes’ arsenal. The Mark IIb Land Raider Phobos is one of the earliest marks of the standard pattern of Land Raider. The Mark IIb Land Raider Phobos is the only pattern of the standard Land Raider Phobos that uses the older armoured sponsons, as they do not allow the weapons they hold to fully rotate.

I got a Forge World MkIIB Land Raider and was originally painting it up as a Grey Knights Land Raider in desert camouflage.

I wrote up some reflections recently on my MkIIB Land Raider, on the current state of the painting and what I needed to do next.

I also noticed that there is a part missing the, the hull top front bolters. I will have to find where I put that piece. Well I was pleased to find the missing parts and these have now been reunited with the Land Raider. They were a set of twin bolters and a armoured shell for the bolters.

At the point though of repainting I didn’t glue in the armoured shell, as I knew I would need to paint the bolters first before affixing the shell.

The model was given a white undercoat and then a new basecoat of Daemonic Yellow spray from Army Painter.

I then painted the twin bolters with Leadbelcher.

When it came to fixing the shell in, I had a bit of trouble fitting it into place. It was a bit of a tight fit.

So much so trying to fit the piece I damaged the paintwork on the armoured shell.

I eventually managed to glue in the armoured shell. I then touched up the damaged areas with a brush and some fresh paint.

Toning down the purity seals

One model I got many years ago, well in 2006, was a Forgeworld Razorback the one with the much bigger turret, which I much prefer over the plastic kit version that you could get in the shops back then. I recently retrieved it from storage and decided that I would try and finish painting it. I was using Tausept Ochre as the base coat, however having liked the paint scheme I was using on my Deimos-pattern Rhino, I decided that I would paint the Razorback in the same scheme. Having sprayed the underneath of the model with Citadel Zandri Dust. I gave the model a basecoat of Army Painter Daemonic Yellow. This was followed with Leadbelcher for painting the exhausts and weaponry. The next step was painting the iconography and purity seals. I then slightly messed up the shading on the model, but think I managed to get the effect I was looking for. For the next stage I used some Citadel Layer Yriel Yellow. I took a large brush and gave the model, what I would call, a heavy drybrush. The next step was to paint and highlight the iconography. I then glued the tracks to the Razorback using superglue.

I also took the time to brighten up the purity seals and other iconography after it was dulled down by the shades and washes. I also highlighted the purity seals with some White Scar paint.

However, as with my Repressor, I think I overdid this, they are too bright for the model. I decided to dull these down a bit with some Citadel Seraphim Sepia Shade.

I think that this works better than bright white purity seals.

See the workbench feature on the Razorback.

Those purity seals are too white!

The Repressor tank is often used by Sisters of Battle as transport, and by the Adeptus Arbites in an anti insurgency role. I started building and painting this model back in 2007, I recently retrieved it from storage and decided that I would try and finish painting it. I realised I had made quite significant progress and it wouldn’t take too long to finish it off.

Having sprayed the model with Citadel Zandri Dust over the existing Tausept Ochre base coat and black undercoat, I started the detailing, using Leadbelcher on the weapons and the exhausts. The next step was painting the iconography and purity seals. I then gave the model a wash using Citadel shades. I then did some additional shading using different shades. The next stage was some drybrushing, for this I used Citadel Zandri Dust. I fixed the tracks to the model.

I also took the time to brighten up the purity seals and other iconography after it was dulled down by the shades and washes. I also highlighted the purity seals with some White Scar paint.

However, I think I overdid this, they are too bright for the model. I decided to dull these down a bit with some Citadel Seraphim Sepia Shade.

I was pleased with this, giving the purity seals an older worn look to them.

See the workbench feature on the Inquisitorial Stormtroopers Repressor Transport.
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Detailing the Forge World Grey Knights Dreadnought

I have had a Mark IV Forge World Grey Knights Dreadnought on my workbench for a while. After getting some weapon arms for the model. I gave the main model a black undercoat and started base coating with a metallic paint. The weapons I had given a white undercoat. Getting it out from storage, I decided to almost start again and gave the model a base spray of Leadbelcher. I gave the model a wash of Nuln Oil Shade. For the next stage I used some Citadel Leadbelcher. I took a large brush and gave the model, what I would call, a heavy drybrush. I then did a lighter drybrush of various silver paints.

I did intend to paint the base for the model next, but upon checking the workbench feature for my Grey Knights, I realised that I needed a paint I didn’t have. For my Grey Knights I painted the flocked (well sanded) bases with Bestial Brown and then drybrushed with Bleached Bone. After that I went over the edge of the slottabase again with Bestial Brown.

I don’t have a pot of Bestial Brown, and Citadel no longer manufacture that colour. According to the Dakka Dakka paint compatibility chart the best option is Mournfang Brown. Might have to pop out and buy a pot of that.

I did though paint the paper for the purity seals on the Dreadnought using Layer Ushabti Bone. I also used Bronze and Gold Sharpie pens for some of the metallic aspects of the model.

Drybrushing the Dreadnought

This Space Marine Dreadnought was one of the models included the Assault on Black Reach boxed set. The Warhammer 40,000 Assault on Black Reach was 5th edition’s “boxed game” or “starter set”. Having constructed the model I then put it away for a while… I got the model out of storage and decided I would paint this up as an Imperial Fists Dreadnought to accompany my new Deimos-pattern Rhino. I gave it a white undercoatusing White Scar spray. The next stage was the base coat and I did consider to either use a yellow spray, or to use the new Imperial Fist contrast paint. In the end I went with the new Imperial Fist contrast paint and I was quite pleased with the end result. I knew that though this looked quite good, it wasn’t quite the effect I wanted, so I shaded most of the model with Reikland Fleshshade Shade. I painted the weaponry and the exhausts on the Dreadnought with Leadbelcher.

For the next stage I used some Citadel Layer Yriel Yellow. I took a large brush and gave the model, what I would call, a heavy drybrush. I put paint on the brush, and then used some kitchen towel to remove most of the paint, and then using a stippling process added paint to the model.

I think I still need to do something about the right leg shield.

See the workbench feature on the Space Marine Dreadnought.

More drybrushing on the Forge World Grey Knights Dreadnought

I followed this up with some lighter drybrushing, first with Base Grey Knights Steel, then Layer Ironbreaker and finally Layer Stormhost Silver.

The aim was to add brightness to the Dreadnought.

See the full workbench feature on the Forge World Grey Knights Dreadnought.

Campaign weary Rogal Dorn Battle Tank

So, we know there is a new tank coming for the Imperial Guard.

The new Rogal Dorn Battle Tank is a behemoth of a vehicle, perfectly suited for smashing enemy positions and anchoring defensive lines. Its heavy armour gives it durability worthy of the Praetorian’s name, while its powerful engines ensure it doesn’t fall behind squadrons of Leman Russ Battle Tanks.

In a recent post on the Warhammer Community we learnt a little more about the kit and how the model goes together.

As I read the article it got me thinking about building a camping weary Rogal Dorn tank, a fighting vehicle that has been out in the field for a while.

It’s also the first time we’ve shown proper suspension on a tank kit, so you can leave off the side skirts and see the wheels.

Now this is interesting, I quite like the idea of modelling the tank without skirts, maybe they got lost during a firefight.

The stowage is also really versatile – there are plenty of sandbags, packs, tools, and oil canisters – but we’ve been careful with the sizing so they fit in lots of different places.

I like this idea, I can see how this will allow you to create a tank which has been on a long campaign. Covered in stowage and personal belongings. This isn’t a parade ready tank, this is a fighting vehicle that has been fighting for a long time.

I suspect it won’t be long before it’s available in pre-order.

What else do I need to do…

Digging the model out from storage, I decided not that I would start again, but I certainly would have a different approach. I have had my Kill Bursta hanging around on the workbench for a while now, so it was s nice to make some significant progress on the model.

I was looking at the work I had done with the Ork Kill Bursta Tank. I liked the effect I had achieved on the engine.

There is still a fair bit of work to do on the model, but I am pleased with my progress so far.

I want to do some more weathering, but also to make it a little more Orky.

Forge World Ork Gunwagon

I got a Forge World Ork Gunwagon many years ago, well in 2006.

A variant of a standard Battlewagon, a basic gunwagon consists of a powerful engine and a mounted Big Shoota on a chassis. A gunwagon only has a seat for the driver, but hand holds are provided to transport Orks over short distances. Much like other Ork vehicles, the gunwagon is a highly modifiable platform, and can be armed with a Zzap Gun, a Kannon, or a quad of Flak guns while still retaining its transport capabilities. In addition, the gunwagon can be up-armoured to protect the driver and gunner, and also mounts an extra Big Shoota.

This kit hasn’t been available from Forge World for some years now. There isn’t a like for like replacement either.

I have noticed that Forge World’s list of Ork kits has shrunk over the years. Their big Ork tanks are no longer available. Glad I got some when I did, though I should get to finish painting them.