Forgeworld Ork Gunwagon Conversions

Even though I had stuck all my Forgeworld Ork Gunwagons together and undercoated them, I have now decided that I want to use some of the excellent weapons on some Squiggoths!

I managed to get a Kannon and a Lobba off the models (well I did manage to “break” another Lobba, but glued it back into position).

With the two empty Gunwagons, with one I have added a buggy gunner and the other is going to get a Pulsa Rokkitt.

Cheap Ork Boar Boyz

…or how to save a little bit of money…

With the release of the Warhammer 40K 2004 Annual the final version of the Ork feral list is now available.

I quite like the idea of Boar Boyz I certainly use them in my Epic Ork army, but have always been a little wary of the price of the Warhammer Fantasy Battle Orc Boar Riders which are £6 each!

Having glanced around the GW online store I have come up with a potential (and cheaper) solution.

Using the Orc Command Sprue (from the Orc Boyz Regiment boxed set) you do in fact get a Boar rider. It only costs £3 and you get an additional two Orcs.

Ork Boar Boyz

It would seem that you get three Orc bodies and four legs, however if you take a closer look at the top right you can see that the legs are slightly different!

Ork Boar Boyz

These are the Boar Rider legs. If you have the Orc Battalion Box, you will notice you get a Orc Warlord on a Boar these are the components.

A plastic boar costs £1 for the body and 50 pence for the head, total cost is £4.50 and you get an additional two Orcs.

As the plastic components with the 40K Ork Boyz are pretty similar and you get loads of extra arms with 40K weapons to convert the Orc Boyz.

The command sprue also comes with a range of extra bitz as well including a standard, a shield and a pair of drums – perfect for any feral Ork army.

It is my intention however to use the 40mm round slottabases rather than the WHFB cavalry bases which come with the boars.

Basing the Killa Kan

I have finished the base on one of my Killa Kans and with a virtually done paintjob it is ready to play a game with.

The base is done with a few bits of gravel from the garden, GW sand and then painted Codex Grey before being drybrushed with lighter shades of grey and then white.

The main body of the Killa Kan is black, drybrushed with Tin Bitz and Boltgun Metal.

I still have to do some of the detailing but I am quite happy with it at the moment.

I am not sure whether I should paint the missiles yet and what colour!

You find more information on the Killa Kan on the workbench section of the iFelix website.

Ork Bommer looking better…

I tried something else…

Well after much thinking, I decided to stick with the orange, but this time lay it on thick!

Ork Bommer

It has covered better and now looks like battered panels and the paint has cracked and flaked off.

I need to do some highlighting and some more weathering, but I am now more pleased with this than the previous attempt!

it is somewhat bright, but I may vary the share across different panels.

You find the previous history of my Ork Fighter Bommer on the workbench section of the iFelix website.

Grey Knights Land Speeder – the story continues…

More of the model painted… Managed to get in some painting time (the majority was spent on a secret project) however I did manage to get some more of my Grey Knights Land Speeder painted.

You can see I have painted more of the bodywork (in Boltgun Metal) and painted the Imperial Eagle in Burnished Gold with highlights. The Inquisitor Book has also had the edges painted in Burnished Gold.

The underneath has been drybrushed with Boltgun Metal and I may do some weathering on the engines later.

Though the crew legs still need painting, I have painted the instrument panel.

This final shot shows how the model is coming together… still need to paint the crew!

Ork Bommer

Trying to ensure that the panels look battered…

You find the previous history of my Ork Fighter Bommer on the workbench section of the main website.

One effect I wanted was to ensure that the fighter looked like it was cobbled together from bits and pieces and then painted orange. I also wanted to have some “new” pieces that looked like they were from captured Imperial vehicles.

However first I needed to do the edges, and these were painted roughly in black.

These will then be drybrushed with Boltgun Metal and Chainmail to give a rough knocked about a bit look. The panels will then be painted orange (though some will be painted Cadian green as though they were taken from destroyed Imperial tanks).