I’ve enjoyed painting my Aeronautica Imperialis models and even I am impressed that I have managed to build, undercoat and paint them in a relatively short timeframe. I did my Valkyrie Assault Carrier in a week! I would usually take a few years to paint them (if at all….).
I started to think about which models I would get next, and that got me thinking what we have seen that still needs to be released and also what could be released in the future and what I would like to see in the future as well.
Some of these are obviously core Games Workshop releases, some could be plastic kits and I think others might be Forge World models or upgrades to plastic kits.
Forge World have released some kits for Adeptus Titanicus, such as weapon upgrades, new titans and scenery. I would like to think that they would do something similar for Aeronautica Imperialis.
What I might get next?
So, there are now quite a few released models for Aeronautica Imperialis, Ork, Imperial and now T’au aircraft. I bought Wings of Vengeance, so I already have Ork Dakkajets, Fighta Bommerz as well as Imperial Thunderbolts and Marauders. I also bought a box of Valkyrie Assault Carriers.I was lucky enough to find a box of Ground Assets recently, so I have those as well.
The obvious answer for me is a pair of Grot Bommerz. I do like the concept of these, though I am not a big fan of the actual models, but Orks is Orks, so they are next on my shopping list.
Having recently purchased the Wings of Vengeance boxed set I was expecting that it might take a little time for the models to be built and painted. I am a bit slow when it comes to modelling, mainly in finding the time. So finding some room and time I decided to build the Ork Fighta Bommerz from the Aeronautica Imperialis boxed set. Having made good progress with those I started on the Dakkajets.
Among the smallest and most numerous of Ork aircraft, the Dakkajet is built for speed and firepower, capable of unleashing devastating hails of buffets from its arsenal of quad big shootas.
There are three of these in the Wings of Vengeance boxed set. This is the painted version on the GW website.
In the retail box you get six of the little planes.
Here is the sprue for the models. As you can see all three are on the one sprue.
I have both volumes of the Forge World Masterclass books and they are a real inspiration and full of ideas and techniques for painting and weathering models.
I wanted to try and emulate some of those techniques on the engine of the Ork Bommer.
I have been using a combination of inks and shades on a base coat of Bolt Gun Metal. I then want to highlight parts of the engine, as well as adding some more grunge.
I intend to use some Forge World weathering powders and Citadel Technical paints to further enhance and weather the engines. I might though in the first instance try them on another model to ensure it works out how I want them to, but also what happens when I varnish the model.
The stage after painting the base coats and the details on the boomer I thought the next stage would be relatively much easier, however I was mistaken.
I was using a variety of Citadel shades initially, I left the boomer to dry. I found one of them I was using left a residue on the model. I was lucky that I was able to remove the residue with water and some kitchen towel. I am not sure what caused the problem, maybe one of age of my paints or not mixing it properly.
In the end I am quite pleased with the end result. What I was trying to achieve was a weathered aged look that is the result of a complete disregard to maintenance or care for the bommer. If this was a human Imperial Guard plane, it probably wouldn’t be able to fly, however as this is an Ork aircraft, it flies because of the sheer will of the pilot.
The next stage will be drybrushing, but in my next posting about the bommer I will look at the engine and engine details.
The next stage with the Ork Bommer was starting to add the details to the model. I have already given the model a two colour base coat, a base spray of German Armour Yellow, this was then followed by a second spray of British Armour Green. The base yellow was masked with blu-tac in an haphazard manner as would be befitting Orks.
In the past I would have painted the details Chaos Black and then dry brushed the details with Tin Bitz and Boltgun Metal. This process has fallen out of favour with me, and with this model I am going to use a technique that I originally tried on my Victorian Science Fiction Tunneller.
This underside view shows the engine in more detail.
The process is to first put down a base of Boltgun metal and then using shades and inks to add washes to bring out the detail.
I am also intending to use some of the Forge World weathering powders I purchased a few years ago, which I have never got around to using.
Here are two further components of my Ork Bommer, the cockpit and the rear turret assemblies. Initially they had a white sprayed undercoat.
The interiors were painted Chaos Black and drybrushed with Boltgun Metal. I then using Vallejo Middlestone for the exterior parts that will be showing. This (in theory) is the same colour as the original sprayed basecoat. The next stage
I decided after basecoating the Ork Bommer that I might do an experiment with this model and apply some camouflage. I decided to add a second spray, after masking off some of the basecoat, of a different contrasting colour. Looking through the cupboard I realised that I only had a dark green, whereas I did think a darker brown would have worked well. Ah well, I had time to paint, not much time though to go out and buy some new paint!
In terms of masking I had three options, use some masking fluid, masking tape or blu-tac. I decided not to use the masking fluid, as I had not used it before, though I will probably have a go with it for the glass canopies. I did consider using masking tape, but I wanted curved lines not straight. So in the end went with the blu-tac.
This I stuck on the model and then gave the model a spray of British Armour Green.
As this was an Ork scheme, I didn’t use any kind of regular pattern with the camouflage.
After letting the paint fully dry, I removed the blu-tac.
I was very pleased with the end result.
Next stage will be the detailing, painting the engines and guns, as well as the crew and cockpit.
As is the case with most of the new kits from Games Workshop, this model comes with a range of choices on how you fit the kit together. You can build a fighter version, a ground attack variant or a dive-bomber.
The most popular configurations of the Ork Bommer are the Dakkajet, the Burna-Bommer and the Blitza-Bommer.
I decided that I would build mine as per the Burna-Bommer, as I liked the rear turret, but would arm mine with the weaponry from the Blitza-Bommer and a couple of extra forward firing big shootaz!
The model went together quite easily. Though I do feel that the CAD style of the instructions makes them more difficult to follow than the traditional line art that I remember from making Airfix kits in the 1970s and 1980s.
The main issue I had was with the rear horizontal fins. The way they are connected means it is not a strong joint and initially the fin drooped. I therefore had to prop it up whilst the glue cured.
With the way I am going to paint the model I kept the cockpit, pilot and turret assembly separate, and the bombs as well.
The next stage will be a white undercoat followed by a base coat of German Armour Yellow (well that’s what I had in the cupboard).