Camouflaging the Ork Bommer

I decided after basecoating the Ork Bommer that I might do an experiment with this model and apply some camouflage. I decided to add a second spray, after masking off some of the basecoat, of a different contrasting colour. Looking through the cupboard I realised that I only had a dark green, whereas I did think a darker brown would have worked well. Ah well, I had time to paint, not much time though to go out and buy some new paint!

In terms of masking I had three options, use some masking fluid, masking tape or blu-tac. I decided not to use the masking fluid, as I had not used it before, though I will probably have a go with it for the glass canopies. I did consider using masking tape, but I wanted curved lines not straight. So in the end went with the blu-tac.

This I stuck on the model and then gave the model a spray of British Armour Green.

As this was an Ork scheme, I didn’t use any kind of regular pattern with the camouflage.

After letting the paint fully dry, I removed the blu-tac.

I was very pleased with the end result.

Next stage will be the detailing, painting the engines and guns, as well as the crew and cockpit.

Constructing the Ork Bommer

As is the case with most of the new kits from Games Workshop, this model comes with a range of choices on how you fit the kit together. You can build a fighter version, a ground attack variant or a dive-bomber.

The most popular configurations of the Ork Bommer are the Dakkajet, the Burna-Bommer and the Blitza-Bommer.

I decided that I would build mine as per the Burna-Bommer, as I liked the rear turret, but would arm mine with the weaponry from the Blitza-Bommer and a couple of extra forward firing big shootaz!

The model went together quite easily. Though I do feel that the CAD style of the instructions makes them more difficult to follow than the traditional line art that I remember from making Airfix kits in the 1970s and 1980s.

The main issue I had was with the rear horizontal fins. The way they are connected means it is not a strong joint and initially the fin drooped. I therefore had to prop it up whilst the glue cured.

With the way I am going to paint the model I kept the cockpit, pilot and turret assembly separate, and the bombs as well.

The next stage will be a white undercoat followed by a base coat of German Armour Yellow (well that’s what I had in the cupboard).