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Having gone back to my Ork Fort I decided to give the roof floor a wash of brown ink.
Now I have done this, I will drybrush the floor of the roof of the fort to highlight the detail. I will then add further washes and use some Forge World weathering powders to show a more used and worn look.
As for the walls of the fort, these I will wash, drybrush and weather, but not as heavy as the roof floor.
Still lots to do.
Next stage on my Ork Mega Dread was attaching the legs having attached the thighs to the main body.
One of the challenges was to ensure that having positioned the legs that the model not only could stand, but was also stable so wouldn’t fall over during a game. I didn’t really want to have to base the model if I could help it. This is so I could use it in various games and not have a grassy scenic base whilst playing Cityfight style games.
Though… of course if you do use a base, you could convert the model to make it look like it was walking rather than standing.
See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.
Just under a year ago, Games Workshop released some new plastic Skaven kits.
It wasn’t just me, but a lot of other Ork players looked at the new plastic Skaven Doomwheel and thinking, “now that could be an interesting Ork vehicle or bike!” I am thinking a Weird Boy transport option. Of course being plastic means that conversion should be easier than the previous metal version.
In the box there are three plastic sprues.
As you might expect, a fair number of the parts have Skaven style insignia and icons on them. I am thinking that carving these off the plastic parts shouldn’t be too hard. The other thing I could do is cover them up with Ork icons. I have the new brass ones form Forge World and a fair few plastic ones from the various Ork kits I have.
The engine will be a key conversion for this model, it’s at times like this that I wish Forge World would make more conversion bitz for the Orks. I think I will need to use some plastic tubing for this. I am intending to add to the conversion using parts from the Ork Trukk kit, though I am also thinking that I may need to get some Ork Bikes as well.
I liked these models when I heard about them on the GW website, so I bought a pack at GamesDay.
This set contains two metal Imperial Guard crew, including: one carrying two fuel canisters, and one carrying a wrench and heavy stubber barrel.
Having put the Kil Kannon together I gave the model a white undercoat.
Like my Big Zzappa, I am thinking rather than a black basecoat (which is what I have used in the past on other similar weapons) I will use a basecoat of Boltgun Metal and then use washes and weathering powders.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork KilKannon.
Having put the Big Zzappa together I gave the model a white undercoat.
I am thinking rather than a black basecoat (which is what I have used in the past on other similar weapons) I will use a basecoat of Boltgun Metal and then use washes and weathering powders.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa.
One model I purchased was a Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa. I am intending to use it with my new Ork vehicles. This is the weapon on an Ork Gunwagon as seen at GamesDay 2009.
The resin parts are as seen here.
You get two Grot Krew.
One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forge World models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forge World models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily. However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant. Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to bend warped resin back to its original shape).
The model goes together really easily.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa.
One model I purchased was a Forgeworld Ork KilKannon. I am intending to use it with my new Ork vehicles.
This is the weapon on an Ork Halftrakk as seen at GamesDay 2009.
The resin parts are as seen here.
You get three Grot Krew and a case of shells. One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forge World models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forge World models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily. However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant. Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to bend warped resin back to its original shape).
The model goes together really easily.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork KilKannon.
After constructing the legs and thighs, I attached the thighs to the main body.
I also added one of the side Big Shootaz.
There are eight “taps” that they need to be glued onto the rear engine. The exhausts were challenging, in the main due to the superglue I was using, the glue was a little two liquid, so I changed to a gel type super glue.
See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.
After putting the main body parts together, the next stage was getting the legs and thighs constructed.
The legs go together quite easily and have pistons.
The thighs would join the legs to the body.
See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.