Scenery Tiles Update

My scenery tiles which had been languishing in my garage since May 2005 have had quite a bit done to them over the last week or so.

Having stuck some small stones and cork onto the boards last May, I stuck down some ripped up textured wallpaper. I then used a polyfilla white glue (PVA) mix to seal down the edges.

After this was dry, I used a watered down PVA mix and liberally scattered GW sand (the one with the small stones in) over the surface. This was then left to dry.

I then decided to “enhance” the boards with a spray of GW Roughcoat, which to be honest was a bit of a disappointment. The texture is really too fine for desert scenery, but worse the spray can I had was a bit dodgy and sometimes wouldn’t spray or would spray back at me!

The next stage is to spray the boards with some different colours, brown and rusty red.

Weapons for the Grey Knights Dreadnought

When I was at GamesDay 2006 I got a couple of weapons for my Grey Knights Dreadnought from the Forgeworld stand.

I got a Psycannon…

and a Mortis pattern twin-linked Lascannon weapon.

Yes I know according to the rules and fluff that this is not a “legal” combination, but when I have ever followed the fluff! It was a slightly beardy choice, as generally my opponent uses a lot of tanks, therefore a Dreadnought Tank Killer is a better choice than a close combat version and I don’t like the missile launcher weapon variant.

Both weapons came with small amounts of flash, the Psycannon targeter has a small amount of sprue to be removed, see the red shaded area.

The Lascannons had a much bigger piece of sprue see the red shaded area (which looks small in this photo) which took a bit of cleaning to get off.

Here is a photograph of the Dreadnought with the arms temporarily attached.

One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forgeworld models is to give them a good wash.

When the Forgeworld models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily.

However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.

Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant.

Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to warped resin back to its original shape).

Once washed the model is then ready for painting.

Painting the Ork Looted Rhino

I have some photographs of the Ork looted Rhino which s receiving its base coat.

This is the left side. You can see I have also done some black on the front panel. I have started the brown with the hatch to see if it worked. I liked it so the whole vehicle was painted. Work in progress.

I used Snakebite Leather (it was this colour or I was thinking of using Vomit Brown I used on my Ork Fighter Bommer).

Another shot

More soon…

Ork Kommandos

I have put my Ork Kommandos on their bases.

I have decided to paint their backpacks separately, so will need to mount them somehow.

The boss (Nob) has a separate arm and head, so I stuck them on.

One of the nice touches (Jes Godwin told me this) is the bullet hole in his left boot just below his Slugga holster.

It’s as though one day, he was holstering his pistol and BANG!

Ork Kommandos

At GamesDay 2006 I purchased a box of Ork Kommandos.

These are a recent release from Games Workshop as part of the Medusa V campaign. One of the rare Ork releases until the release of the Ork Codex sometime in the latter half of 2007.

The Orks come in quite a few components, and each as their own backpack, with the Nob backpack also having a Grot hiding in the top.

Though obviously released as Ork Kommandos they could be used as Tankbustaz.

Looted Ork Rhino Update

It has been some time since I posted an update on my Ork Looted Rhino, so here is one. I have painted the tracks black.

I drybrushed the tracks with Tin Bitz and Boltgun Metal.

I did something similar with the wheels…

… and one of the Ork’s added armour panels.

At this point I then decided to do the exhausts in a similar manner.

The next stage will be painting the basecoat.

Grey Knights Veteran Sergeants

If you have looked at my Grey Knights Landspeeder you will realise that I am attempting to paint a Grey Knights force which goes beyond the listings in the DaemonHunters Codex. What I am trying to do is to create a Grey Knights force (using the Space Marine Codex) and then using a DaemonHunters force as allies.

One thing I will be using are ordinary Space Marines conveted and painted as Grey Knights. As well as ordinary Marines I am going to use some of the Space Marine Veterans as they look very ornate with their purity seals and stuff.

My previous post on my Grey Knight Veterans showed you the parts from the blister.

Here is the front of the completed models.

They are really nice models with a lot of detail.

The next stage will be a black undercoat.

 

 

Grey Knights Veteran Sergeants

If you have looked at my Grey Knights Landspeeder you will realise that I am attempting to paint a Grey Knights force which goes beyond the listings in the DaemonHunters Codex. What I am trying to do is to create a Grey Knights force (using the Space Marine Codex) and then using a DaemonHunters force as allies.

One thing I will be using are ordinary Space Marines conveted and painted as Grey Knights. As well as ordinary Marines I am going to use some of the Space Marine Veterans as they look very ornate with their purity seals and stuff.

Here are the parts from the blister.

The parts were cleanly cast and needed minimal cleaning.