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I really like these Orks I saw on Twitter.
Been struggling to get much done recently ! So hereās some orks! š¤š»#WarhammerCommunity #warhammer40k #paintingminiatures #paintingwarhammer pic.twitter.com/A3odIsFHDh
— Mattpaint13 (@Mattpaint13) May 20, 2023
I had been thinking about getting the Mekyboy Workshop kit for a while. So on a shopping trip to my local games shop I decided toĀ make an impulse purchaseĀ and buy the box. Well it was nearly 30% cheaper than on the GW site.
Having cleaned the plastic parts I gave themĀ a Corax White undercoat. I then startedĀ painting the basecoat across the scrap piles and barricades using a combination of Base and Contrast Citadel paints. I continued to paint the different barricades, using, as before, Base and Contrast paints.
I used some Citadel Cygor Brown Contrast paint on the barricades.
I think it may have been a little too dark for the effect I was trying to achieve.
I think I might do some drybrushing with Gorthor Brown to brighten it up a bit.
More on the various parts from the boxed set.
I was a little saddened and disappointed by some recent news about Forge World.
I was reading the latest news, Warhammer 40,000 and Forge World: Legends and Last Chance to Buy,Ā on the Warhammer Community about the retirement of certain models.
Thereās slightly bittersweet news for Warhammer 40,000 fans today, as some long-serving miniatures will be retiring from the range ā both classic Space Marines, and a selection of Forge World kits.Ā
I do accept the retirement of Forge World resin models, those where models have been replaced by plastic kits, or those where the models are no longer in the codex or the rules. That I get.
What makes me a little saddened and disappointed was this comment in the article:
There will still be Forge World units for Warhammer 40,000, but the focus for them will be on the really big stuff ā like Titans, and other kits that we canāt reasonably produce at that scale (yet!). When we add new units in future, they will almost always be in plastic ā and there are a lot of plastic kits on the way over the next few years!
I like the idea of new plastic kits, but where I think they are missing the trick is to use Forge World not only to produce those big kits (that they wonāt do in plastic) but to produce two types of kits that would enhance and expand the Warhammer 40000 game.
The first of these is new units, those that add real variety to the armies you can field. A past example of that was the Grot Mega Tank. Another example was the Grot Tanks.Ā These were not in the main Ork Codex, but certainly added something different to an Ork army. I liked how there were not just four models in the pack, but the way the models were designed, you could build them in a variety of ways.
I guess the reasoning here is not just about the range of models, but the need to provide rules for these types of models as well.
The second kind of model I think they should produce are variant units. I have in my own collection for example the Ork Halftrakk which is a variant Trukk. I think there could be a range of variant models that would enable for some armies a more varied and cosmopolitain look. This would be critical for some armies, such as Orks, but also Genestealers, Chaos, Tyranids, and others.
Reflecting on Orks, I would like to see a much wider range of buggies for example different kinds of Snazzwagons. I like what Forge World did in the past with the Battlewagon (now the Bonebreaka).
I did like the Imperial variants that Forge World produced as well. I much prefer my Forge World Razorback compared to the plastic kit at the time.
I guess though that Forge World will still be making new resin models for The Horus Heresy. Though this will mean Imperial (and Traitor) units only and not Xenos stuff like Orks!Ā
So what do you think?
I had been thinking about getting the Mekyboy Workshop kit for a while. So on a shopping trip to my local games shop I decided toĀ make an impulse purchaseĀ and buy the box. Well it was nearly 30% cheaper than on the GW site.
Having cleaned the plastic parts I gave themĀ a Corax White undercoat. I then startedĀ painting the basecoat across the scrap piles and barricades using a combination of Base and Contrast Citadel paints. I continued to paint the different barricades, using, as before, Base and Contrast paints.Ā Having finished the base coat onĀ pile of scrap 3, I gave it a wash using Citadel Agrax Earthshade Shade.
I then did some additional shading using Citadel Nuln Oil Shade.
See the workbench feature on Pile of Scrap 3.
I had been thinking about getting this kit for a while. So on a shopping trip to my local games shop I decided toĀ make an impulse purchaseĀ and buy the box. Well it was nearly 30% cheaper than on the GW site.
Having cleaned the plastic parts I gave themĀ a Corax White undercoat. I then startedĀ painting the basecoat across the scrap piles and barricades using a combination of Base and Contrast Citadel paints. I continued to paint the different barricades, using, as before, Base and Contrast paints.
Having finished the base coat onĀ pile of scrap 3, I gave it a wash using Citadel Agrax Earthshade Shade.
See the workbench feature on Pile of Scrap 3.
All Mekboyz can perform battlefield repairs using no more than a weighty wrench-hammer, a sack of nails and a healthy dose of gumption, but most do their best work in the comfortably anarchic surrounds of their own workshop. Meks are more than capable of cobbling together a workspace from whatever is lying about, with rudimentary workshops springing up from battlefield wreckage even while the bullets are still flying. Greenskin vehicles roar toward such teetering structures, their crews throwing sacks of teef at the resident Mek ā he and his crew get to work immediately, sending the Ork customers on their way with snazzier guns, souped-up engines and extra armour plates.
I had been thinking about getting this kit for a while. So on a shopping trip to my local games shop I decided to make an impulse purchase and buy the box. Well it was nearly 30% cheaper than on the GW site.
Having cleaned the plastic parts I gave them a Corax White undercoat.
I then started painting the basecoat across the scrap piles and barricades using a combination of Base and Contrast Citadel paints.
I continued to paint the different barricades, using, as before, Base and Contrast paints.
On this piece, I used Snakebite Leather contrast paint on the middle door.
Painted the icon on this barricade with Imperial Fist Contrast paint.
I used Blood Angels Red contrast paint on toolbox.
Finished painting part of this scrap pile with Imperial Fist Contrast paint.
PaintedĀ the radiator on this barricade with Imperial Fist Contrast paint.
I used Blood Angels Red contrast paint on the tank in the pile.
See the workbench feature on all parts of the Ork Mekboy Workshop.
On one of my recent posts I got a comment from Katie (@Lawgirl04) about another of myĀ workbench models, the Ork Rukkatrukk Squigbuggy.
Sorry to comment here ā but I found your Rukkatrukk Squigbuggy posts, and Iām dying to know if you finished it? Also, I appreciate your tip on how you painted the buggy without gluing down the roll bar. I am just starting this project (and Iām VERY new to warhammer), and itās nearly impossible to find tips/tricks for painting this squigbuggy. If you post more on this item, any tips are appreciated!! Thanks for the great content!
As the comment wasnāt relevant to the model in the blog post, I thought I would post the comment in the blog in a new posting.
I did look over the workbench feature of the Rukkatrukk Squigbuggy to see how far I got with the model.
Well not very far at all to be honest.
Not sure what I would do next. I think I will use some Contrast paint on the main chassis, and then use different colours for the bodywork. I will also be using Leadbelcher as the primary colour on the metallic areas, such as the buzzsaw.
Digging the model out from storage, I decided not that I would start again, but I certainly would have a different approach. I have had my Kill Bursta hanging around on the workbench for a while now, so it was s nice to make some significant progress on the model.
I was looking at the work I had done with the Ork Kill Bursta Tank. I liked the effect I had achieved on the engine.
There is still a fair bit of work to do on the model, but I am pleased with my progress so far.
I want to do some more weathering, but also to make it a little more Orky.
I got a Forge World Ork Gunwagon many years ago, well in 2006.
A variant of a standard Battlewagon, a basic gunwagon consists of a powerful engine and a mounted Big Shoota on a chassis. A gunwagon only has a seat for the driver, but hand holds are provided to transport Orks over short distances. Much like other Ork vehicles, the gunwagon is a highly modifiable platform, and can be armed with a Zzap Gun, a Kannon, or a quad of Flak guns while still retaining its transport capabilities. In addition, the gunwagon can be up-armoured to protect the driver and gunner, and also mounts an extra Big Shoota.
This kit hasn’t been available from Forge World for some years now. There isn’t a like for like replacement either.
I have noticed that Forge World’s list of Ork kits has shrunk over the years. Their big Ork tanks are no longer available. Glad I got some when I did, though I should get to finish painting them.
My Gunwagon is armed with a Forge World Kannon. Though it is not fixed, so I can replace it with other heavy weapons.
Here is the Gunwagon next to a Looted Rhino for a size comparison.
All Mekboyz can perform battlefield repairs using no more than a weighty wrench-hammer, a sack of nails and a healthy dose of gumption, but most do their best work in the comfortably anarchic surrounds of their own workshop. Meks are more than capable of cobbling together a workspace from whatever is lying about, with rudimentary workshops springing up from battlefield wreckage even while the bullets are still flying. Greenskin vehicles roar toward such teetering structures, their crews throwing sacks of teef at the resident Mek ā he and his crew get to work immediately, sending the Ork customers on their way with snazzier guns, souped-up engines and extra armour plates.
I had been thinking about getting this kit for a while. So on a shopping trip to my local games shop I decided to make an impulse purchase and buy the box. Well it was nearly 30% cheaper than on the GW site.
Having cleaned the plastic parts I gave them a Corax White undercoat.
I then started painting the basecoat across the scrap piles and barricades using a combination of Base and Contrast Citadel paints.
I continued to paint the different barricades, using, as before, Base and Contrast paints.
See the workbench feature on all parts of the Ork Mekboy Workshop.