Adding the main weaponry

So after getting all the parts together the next stage was finishing the model off. Sticking the arms on, the frontal armour and the exhausts.

As you can see from this rear view, there is a lot of detail on this model.

I aim to bring out this detail using a combination of washes and drybrushing.

My converted KilKannon, it used the plastic KilKannon from the Battlewagon upgrade sprue.

I did consider having the guns pointing at the same target, but in the end decided to have them slightly off kilter.

See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.

Mega-Dread main weaponry

I bought the Mega Dread with two KilKannon arms. The reason for getting two KilKannons was that I was not that impressed with the close combat weapon that was available at the time, the claw arm looked very flimsy and as a result I felt the model looked unbalanced (from the photographs). Since I bought mine, Forge World have bought out a buzzsaw weapon arm for the Mega-Dread that is much better in my opinion and looks “heavier” and more deadly. If I was to buy a second Mega-Dread I would seriously think about getting the buzzsaw.

These are nice castings that go together really easily.

Mega-Dread main weaponry

Though using one on the left and the right means taking a little extra care to ensure that you don’t end up with two left arms!

For one of the arms I used the plastic KilKannon from the Ork Battlewagon Upgrade Sprue. My reason for this was to make the Mega-Dread look too well constructed, I wanted the Mega-Dread to look like (as it does with the main part of the model) as though it was thrown together by a Mek from lots of rubbish and parts in his workshop. The plastic weapon needed minimal filing to fit and adds variety to the model.

Mega-Dread main weaponry

One left arm and one right arm… Of course the model as a result has two spiked shoulder pads.

Mega-Dread main weaponry

See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.

Attaching the Mega Dread legs

Next stage on my Ork Mega Dread was attaching the legs having attached the thighs to the main body.

One of the challenges was to ensure that having positioned the legs that the model not only could stand, but was also stable so wouldn’t fall over during a game. I didn’t really want to have to base the model if I could help it. This is so I could use it in various games and not have a grassy scenic base whilst playing Cityfight style games.

Though… of course if you do use a base, you could convert the model to make it look like it was walking rather than standing.

See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.

Forge World Christmas Jigsaw Part 3 – Malcador Infernus

Well part 3 of the Forge World Christmas Jigsaw provides us with the final part and we have the Malcador Infernus.

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A “crocodile” style variant of the Malcador, I do like the rear part of the vehicle I am less so sure about the main weaponry. It looks like a big flamer.

Now I know it is a big flamer, but what I mean is that it looks like an out of scale flamer, a 3-up of a standard flamer rather than an actual flamer which is big!

Ork Stompa with Forge World Bitz

At GamesDay 2010 was another chance to see Forge World’s excellent Ork Shanty Town diorama.

This time though Forge World had added a lot of their new models, including an Ork Stompa, one that had used some of the Forge World conversion kits for the Stompa.

On display at GamesDay 2010, Ork Stompa with Forge World variants.
On display at GamesDay 2010, Ork Stompa with Forge World variants

Though I know it will be some time before we see an Ork Gargant from Forge World, it certainly isn’t outside the realms of possibility. Forge World make a BIG model once every two years. Last year, in 2009,  we saw the Reaver Titan, next year 2011 we see the Eldar Phantom Titan. Therefore in 2013 we will see another BIG model. I have to admit my money would be on a Warlord Titan, but an Ork Gargant is certainly one possibility and if we do see the Warlord in 2013 then I think we would see a Gargant in 2015… Can I wait that long? Probably.

So what about the size? Well the process that Forge World use is the same one that companies like Rolls Royce use to make full size resin copies of their aircraft engines, so size isn’t really an issue, selling them certainly is though. Forge World only make models under the assumption that they will sell them. Models that don’t sell find themselves resigned to the mould bin of history.

So would I buy one? If I could afford one, then yes I would. Could I afford one? Probably not.

Undercoating the Kil Kannon

Having put the Kil Kannon together I gave the model a white undercoat.

Like my Big Zzappa, I am thinking rather than a black basecoat (which is what I have used in the past on other similar weapons) I will use a basecoat of Boltgun Metal and then use washes and weathering powders.

See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork KilKannon.

Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa

One model I purchased was a Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa. I am intending to use it with my new Ork vehicles. This is the weapon on an Ork Gunwagon as seen at GamesDay 2009.

Forge World Ork Gunwagon with Big Zappa

The resin parts are as seen here.

You get two Grot Krew.

One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forge World models is to give them a good wash.

When the Forge World models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily. However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.

Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant. Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to bend warped resin back to its original shape).

The model goes together really easily.

See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa.