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Well part 3 of the Forge World Christmas Jigsaw provides us with the final part and we have the Malcador Infernus.
A “crocodile” style variant of the Malcador, I do like the rear part of the vehicle I am less so sure about the main weaponry. It looks like a big flamer.
Now I know it is a big flamer, but what I mean is that it looks like an out of scale flamer, a 3-up of a standard flamer rather than an actual flamer which is big!
At GamesDay 2010 was another chance to see Forge World’s excellent Ork Shanty Town diorama.
This time though Forge World had added a lot of their new models, including an Ork Stompa, one that had used some of the Forge World conversion kits for the Stompa.
Though I know it will be some time before we see an Ork Gargant from Forge World, it certainly isn’t outside the realms of possibility. Forge World make a BIG model once every two years. Last year, in 2009, we saw the Reaver Titan, next year 2011 we see the Eldar Phantom Titan. Therefore in 2013 we will see another BIG model. I have to admit my money would be on a Warlord Titan, but an Ork Gargant is certainly one possibility and if we do see the Warlord in 2013 then I think we would see a Gargant in 2015… Can I wait that long? Probably.
So what about the size? Well the process that Forge World use is the same one that companies like Rolls Royce use to make full size resin copies of their aircraft engines, so size isn’t really an issue, selling them certainly is though. Forge World only make models under the assumption that they will sell them. Models that don’t sell find themselves resigned to the mould bin of history.
So would I buy one? If I could afford one, then yes I would. Could I afford one? Probably not.
Having put the Kil Kannon together I gave the model a white undercoat.
Like my Big Zzappa, I am thinking rather than a black basecoat (which is what I have used in the past on other similar weapons) I will use a basecoat of Boltgun Metal and then use washes and weathering powders.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork KilKannon.
Having put the Big Zzappa together I gave the model a white undercoat.
I am thinking rather than a black basecoat (which is what I have used in the past on other similar weapons) I will use a basecoat of Boltgun Metal and then use washes and weathering powders.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa.
Eldar Cobra on the Forge World display stand at GamesDay 2010.
One model I purchased was a Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa. I am intending to use it with my new Ork vehicles. This is the weapon on an Ork Gunwagon as seen at GamesDay 2009.
The resin parts are as seen here.
You get two Grot Krew.
One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forge World models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forge World models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily. However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant. Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to bend warped resin back to its original shape).
The model goes together really easily.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork Big Zzappa.
One model I purchased was a Forgeworld Ork KilKannon. I am intending to use it with my new Ork vehicles.
This is the weapon on an Ork Halftrakk as seen at GamesDay 2009.
The resin parts are as seen here.
You get three Grot Krew and a case of shells. One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forge World models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forge World models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily. However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant. Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to bend warped resin back to its original shape).
The model goes together really easily.
See the workbench feature on the Forgeworld Ork KilKannon.
After constructing the legs and thighs, I attached the thighs to the main body.
I also added one of the side Big Shootaz.
There are eight “taps” that they need to be glued onto the rear engine. The exhausts were challenging, in the main due to the superglue I was using, the glue was a little two liquid, so I changed to a gel type super glue.
See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.
Forge World have released the next part of their Christmas jigsaw.
Combine it with the first part and we have this.
So defintely not Orky, very much an Imperial Guard piece of technology. Looking like a Malcador variant, something like the Valdor Tank Hunter?
After putting the main body parts together, the next stage was getting the legs and thighs constructed.
The legs go together quite easily and have pistons.
The thighs would join the legs to the body.
See the full workbench feature on my Ork Mega Dread.