warhammer, wh40k, flames of war, bolt action, aeronautica imperialis, star wars, models, news, views and stuff
A three minute clip of World War Z has been released.
Despite the poor reviews and perceptions of this film, I might go and see it, well, wait until it comes out on DVD.
The book is very different to what I have seen of the film, so you might want to get a copy of World War Z
See some photographs from Glasgow where they filmed the above scene.
I do like these retro models. Very nostalgic reminds of those early days of Warhammer 40K, which shows how old I am, because I do remember those days. I bought Rogue Trader when it came out.
The Glaive Super-heavy Special Weapons Tank is a variant of the Fellblade. Armed with a Volkite Carronade, it is designed to destroy xenos beasts and incinerate enemy light vehicles at a single sweep.
While the Glaive has been issued to all eighteen Legiones Astartes in limited quantities, the Salamanders and Dark Angels have long been noted to field Glaives as a matter of course; the XVIIIth Legion’s artifice is more than sufficient to maintain and replicate the arcane Volkite technology, while the provenance and honour of the Ist Legion means that their war matériel and weaponry are ancient indeed.
The preserved Avro Vulcan Bomber flies over the beach at Weston-super-Mare.
Striking a balance between speed, durability and firepower, the Terrier Ironclad is the perfect expansion to a Kingdom of Britannia force. Able to engage any opponent whilst weathering all but the heaviest attacks, the Terrier provides a steadfast iron anchor for the Britannian gun line. Any foe foolish enough to approach the Terrier head on will be blasted by its relentless 122-Pdr Gun, whilst the sponson mounted AT Rifles deter any attempted flanking assaults. As well as this devastating array of firepower, the Terrier holds a powerful shield generator within its hull – a sparking energy field to disrupt incoming fire.
I quite like this new model from Spartan Games for their Dystopian Legions game. It appears from the CAD diagram to have a lot of detail. Though Dystopian Legions uses extra large 28mm figures, this would appear to be not too scale specific so would fit in with 25mm figures quite easily.
I haven’t quite worked out the process of adding decals to my Flames of War tanks. I am not sure if I should give the models a wash first, or after adding the decals.
As for the actual process of applying the decals, there are quite a few articles on the web (and in rules and magazines) on how best to apply decals.
Battlefront even have a video…
…which I must watch at some point.
The process I think I am going to try is to paint the areas for the decals with a gloss varnish. Once that is dry, apply the decals and allow to dry. Then I am going to apply a decal fixer. After that is dry and at this point I will add the weathering to the model. The final stage will be to add a matt varnish to the whole model.
The other problem I have, is despite reading a range of articles on the subject, I am still not entirely sure what decals to apply and where.
There is this article on the Battlefront website, but I know that even after reading this I may get the placement of the insignia just plain wrong.
I think I might need pictures of what the finished article looks like. Still a fair amount of work to do.
This model from Forge World is one of my favourite Ork models they have made. I realised recently that since I undercoated it, it has spent way too long on the workbench… well in storage and I really should start thinking about getting it painted and finished.
They key for me is to not only give it a paintjob worthy of the model, but also one that isn’t going to take all my time and forever to get done.
I don’t want to go down the “black” armour route, likewise I am not sure if I want it red either! I might consider doing something similar to the brown-orange look I have done with the Fighter Bommer.
As for the engines, my usual method with Ork vehicles is to paint them black and then drybrush with Tin Bitz and Boltgun Metal. I might try a different method, one that I first tried on my Victorian Science Fiction Tunneller, where I gave the metal parts a basecoat of Boltgun Metal, then washing it with Citadel Shade: Nuln Oil. If I go down this road, then I will ensure that the Ork engines are a lot more dirty and rusty. As well as using shades, washes, I have a few of the Forge World weathering powders somewhere and this might be an ideal opportunity to use them. Of course if I use weathering powders then I will need a method for sealing them in. This is not one of my strongpoints, as I rarely varnish my models.
The next stage will be to remember which box I put it in…
See the full workbench feature on the Ork Kil Krusha.
My old SDD Miniatures German SdKfz 251 Half Track patrols a French village.
Roads and buildings from Battlefront.
Here are a few of Simon’s Darkest Africa Adventurers.
The flash from the camera (as I was taking these pictures just before the game) has been rather harsh on them, they look a lot better in the flesh. Maybe I should read my own photography techniques!
Excellent. Love this picture.
Here is one my Flames of War Cromwell Tanks moving through a French village.
Why black and white?
Simple. It’s not quite finished, it needs washing, drybrushing, weathering, detailing, decals and then some… Changing to grey scale hides a multitude of sins!