Imperial Guard Squad in the ruins of an Imperial City.
Imperial Guard Command Squad on the move.
Imperial Storm Troopers on the attack in the ruins of an Imperial City.
Imperial Guard defending the ruins.
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One of the things that surprised me about my new Forgeworld Ork Gunwagon was the sheer number of parts.
For some reason I wasn’t expecting to get a large number of parts. I was expecting the track units to be a single casting.
I was pleasantly surprised though to get an extra twin linked Big Shoota as well as the Kannon which I think is standard.
One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forgeworld models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forgeworld models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily.
However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant.
Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to warped resin back to its original shape).
Once washed the model is then ready for gluing and painting.
One model I recently purchased having planned to buy one for some time, was a Forgeworld Ork Gunwagon.
I purchased the model with the Kannon.
Before I think about painting I have taken a look at how others have painted their Gunwagons and there are some nice examples around, but not as many as for some other models.
Forgeworld have some nice painted examples on their website. This is the version I have with the Kannon.
I managed to photograph a couple of these at GamesDay at the Forgeworld display. This is the version with the Lobba.
There are some nice touches. This version is the covered version armed only with a twin-linked Big Shoota.
There is a nice model on the Cool Mini Or Not website.
I am intending to paint mine in a similar style to my Epic versions.
You can find out how I painted my Epic models on my workbench feature.
More soon…
One thing that does bother me slightly about the new Cities of Death building sprues is the additional sprue with the lamps on.
Why?
Well if these buildings have been bombarded with weapons (as you would have thought by the fact they are ruins) how come the lamps are still intact?
Surely with that sort of punishment, the lamps and the glass would have been broken?
Apart from that, having now seen the actual building sprues in my local Games Workshop store, I was more impressed with them then I was with the pictures in the Dwarf or online. They are certainly more robust than they look in print and might be alright on the tabletop.
I recently purchased the Epic Ruined Librarium from Forgeworld.
Partly as I like the model and partly as it would seem that Forgeworld are deleting their Epic scenery. You can no longer get the Cathedral or the Tank Factory for example.
One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forgeworld models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forgeworld models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily.
However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant.
Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to warped resin back to its original shape).
Once washed the model is then ready for painting.