An overhead shot of our Cityfight game.
Orks advancing… through the ruins of an Imperial City.
The time to fight is getting near.
The end is near, the final part of the game.
Yes my Orks were wiped out!
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Why you should take extra care cleaning mould lines on your models…
Having painted the equipment on my Ork Mekboy black.
However this photograph shows that I really needed to spend a little more time cleaning the mould lines off the model. Though when I did this it fell apart!
Back together again.
Next stage re-apply the undercoat.
In a recent post I mentioned the thickness of the Ork Glyphs I recently ordered from Forgeworld.
Well as I suspected might happen they proved difficult to cut apart and I managed to crack the glyphs.
I thought they would be like the Purity Seals which are attached by a very thin resin, these are mounted on 2mm thick resin which also means they look less effective when stuck to vehicles.
I might try and sand them down and see if that makes a difference.
One of the things that surprised me about my new Forgeworld Ork Gunwagon was the sheer number of parts.
For some reason I wasn’t expecting to get a large number of parts. I was expecting the track units to be a single casting.
I was pleasantly surprised though to get an extra twin linked Big Shoota as well as the Kannon which I think is standard.
One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forgeworld models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forgeworld models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily.
However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant.
Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to warped resin back to its original shape).
Once washed the model is then ready for gluing and painting.