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After putting the sides together I stuck on the top of the Rhino which is the base for my Sisters of Battle Repressor – Storm Troopers Transport.
I also added the front armour panel as well.
I won’t be detailing the inside as already mentioned, but I am intending to add extra details such as purity seals etc…
After much procrastinating and leaving it, the other day I started and made significant progress on my Sisters of Battle Repressor which I am going to use as a Storm Troopers Transport. Over the next week or so I will post photographs of the different stages of the process.
The Repressor uses the Rhino as the basis for the model and there are various resin parts.
After thinking about it for a while I decided that I would not detail, model or paint the interior of the model. In the main as the resin parts did not allow easy access (viewing) to the internals and therefore would be (in my view) a lot of work and effort and nobody would see it.
The first stage was to put the core Rhino structure together. I avoided the mistake I made with my Ork Looted Rhino and assembled it according to the “instructions”.
After one side I glued the other track assembly together. Luckily there are not lots of wheels like most scale model kits you get these days.
Then the two sub-assemblies were glued together. At this point don’t forget to add the back door!
Next stage was to add the top of the hull.
This is an Inquisitorial Storm Troopers Valkyrie Transport.
It has landed.
And is dropping off a troop of Inquisitorial Storm Troopers and an Inquisitor.
This is the Forgeworld model with Inquistion doors.
In a recent post I showed a picture of a Sisters of Battle Repressor from the Forgeworld Displays at GamesDay.
I said “I do like this model and I am intending to get one to use with my Daemonhunters army as a transport for the Storm Troopers”.
Well Santa must have been listening as I got one for Christmas from my friend Simon (thanks mate).
I am well pleased.
It is a very nice model and you get the following bits of resin. A new hull top, a dozer blade and extra weapons.
The Forgeworld model above includes Sisters of Battle doors, but as I am going to make this a Inquisitorial Storm Trooper transport I may use some Inquisition doors or leave them as they are. I might leave them as they are, as I am thinking about adding some extra armour to the model, akin to the spaced armour, but made from mesh, a kind of anti-tank mesh that you see on armoured vehicles today or on German tanks during World War Two.
As well as the resin pieces you also get a complete Rhino kit (though the Repressor is also available as a conversion kit, though the conversion kits to me never seem such value for money).
The standard Rhino kit includes three sprues.
The second sprue.
The Imperial extras sprue.
As a result I will have some spare parts which will be probably used by my Orky boyz on a few conversions.
When I was at GamesDay 2006 I got a couple of weapons for my Grey Knights Dreadnought from the Forgeworld stand.
I got a Psycannon…
and a Mortis pattern twin-linked Lascannon weapon.
Yes I know according to the rules and fluff that this is not a “legal” combination, but when I have ever followed the fluff! It was a slightly beardy choice, as generally my opponent uses a lot of tanks, therefore a Dreadnought Tank Killer is a better choice than a close combat version and I don’t like the missile launcher weapon variant.
Both weapons came with small amounts of flash, the Psycannon targeter has a small amount of sprue to be removed, see the red shaded area.
The Lascannons had a much bigger piece of sprue see the red shaded area (which looks small in this photo) which took a bit of cleaning to get off.
Here is a photograph of the Dreadnought with the arms temporarily attached.
One of the key things you need to do with virtually all Forgeworld models is to give them a good wash.
When the Forgeworld models are cast, the mould is given a spray (I guess) of some kind of lubricant to allow the cast model to be released from the mould easily.
However the lubricant also acts as a barrier to paint, so as happened with previous models I (and others) have painted is that the paint flecks off.
Washing the model in water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove the lubricant.
Avoid using hot water as this could warp the resin (a useful tip if you need to warped resin back to its original shape).
Once washed the model is then ready for painting.
I have undercoated my Grey Knights Veteran Sergeants using a black undercoat.
This is the rear view.
The next stage is to do a base coat of Boltgun Metal.
If you have looked at my Grey Knights Landspeeder you will realise that I am attempting to paint a Grey Knights force which goes beyond the listings in the DaemonHunters Codex. What I am trying to do is to create a Grey Knights force (using the Space Marine Codex) and then using a DaemonHunters force as allies.
One thing I will be using are ordinary Space Marines conveted and painted as Grey Knights. As well as ordinary Marines I am going to use some of the Space Marine Veterans as they look very ornate with their purity seals and stuff.
My previous post on my Grey Knight Veterans showed you the parts from the blister.
Here is the front of the completed models.
They are really nice models with a lot of detail.
The next stage will be a black undercoat.
I have given my Grey Knights Dreadnought a black undercoat.
You can still the detail as I didn’t undercoat too heavily.
As happens with virtually everytime I spray an undercoat I need to touch up the undercoat with a brush.
I have stuck down some GW sand on my Grey Knights Dreadnought base.
I am keeping it simple, as I am using a desert theme for the Daemonhunters force I am building.
I used PVA (white glue) and then scattered the GW sand (which I really like, especially the small stones) over it.
Next stage is the undercoat.
It was a simple model to put together and went together really easily.
This is the front view.
The right view.
The left view.
The back view.
Next stage is to get the base done.